Study: Roddick-Lanzilotta A.D., Kelly R.J., et al. Keratin blend anchors follicles and prevents pollution induced hair fall. Cosmetics & Toiletries. Vol 134, No. 9. Pg 24-36. Oct 2019.
Ex-Vivo Study Summary: The objective was to investigate the efficacy of a topical keratin peptide blend in anchoring hair follicles and protecting them from pollution-induced damage and hair fall, by increasing collagen IV expression in the scalp.
Location and Oversight
- Conducted in France
- The explants and analysis were performed under controlled laboratory conditions using live human scalp tissue.
Subjects and Sample Details
- Donor: One 58-year-old woman undergoing a facelift procedure.
- Samples: 16 live scalp explants were harvested from the donor. Each explant contained 2–3 viable hair follicles.
- Explants were divided into 7 groups: Biopsy control, untreated control, two keratin-treated groups, pollution-only group, and two groups with keratin and pollution.
Treatment Protocol
- Keratin Peptide Blend: A combination of oxidized keratin, native keratin, and hydrolyzed keratin peptides was topically applied.
- Pollution Exposure: Simulated urban pollutants and cigarette smoke.
- Keratin peptides were applied on Days 0, 2, and 5. Pollution exposure occurred on Day 5. Tissue was harvested and analyzed on Day 6.
Significant Results
1. Collagen IV Expression
- Keratin-treated explants showed a significant increase in collagen IV at the hair bulb and dermal papilla, especially with K1 formulation.
- This increase strengthens the dermal-epidermal junction, improving hair follicle anchoring.
2. Oxidative Stress Marker (Nrf2)
- Nrf2 degradation is a marker of oxidative stress. Pollution significantly reduced Nrf2 levels.
- Pre-treatment with keratin protected follicles from Nrf2 degradation, suggesting reduced oxidative stress.
3. Cell Viability and Morphology
- Pollution caused poor cell morphology, keratin degradation, and increased follicle separation (early signs of hair loss).
- Keratin pre-treatment preserved cell structure and keratin expression, maintaining healthy follicular architecture.
Mechanism of Action: Follicle Anchoring
The authors propose a dual mechanism for follicle protection and anchoring:
1. Structural Reinforcement via Collagen IV
- Soluble keratin peptides stimulate keratinocytes to produce collagen IV, a critical protein of the basement membrane anchoring the follicle.
- This strengthens the hair bulb’s connection to the scalp and improves resistance to hair fall.
- Increased markers of follicle anchoring were observed at Day 6
2. Antioxidant and Anti-inflammatory Support
- The cysteine-rich profile of keratin enables:
- Radical scavenging, neutralizing pollution-related oxidative damage.
- Support for sulfur metabolism, enhancing glutathione and taurine production—key antioxidants in skin and follicle protection.
- This biochemical support reduces inflammation and helps maintain keratinocyte health, preventing follicular degradation.
In essence, the keratin peptides act both as a biological scaffold and a biochemical shield, reinforcing the follicle physically and protecting it metabolically.